Is it possible? Can the magic of the Mediterranean Riviera be reproduced here? Idined there mid January, a couple of days after the restaurant had opened. And it was a disappointment. We went back again, a couple of days ago and were pleasantly surprised.
DECOR
You’ll either love it or hate it. What on earth do shiny chandeliers and mirrors have to do with the vivid natural beauty of the Riviera? The sun, sky and sea? Why is Rivea a shiny, almost colourless room, a luxury space capsule which seems to be floating through a limbo without any distinct geographic reference? To be fair and to get another perspective, I did speak to diners and they loved the stylish mirrored look (as well as the food).
FOOD
It’s the contrasting temperatures and textures (the ooze and crunch) on many a plate that we enjoyed. Be it the amuse bouche of the beetroot goat cheese tian contrasting with the chilled Olive oil ice cream or the plump goat cheese pockets of ravioli with the quivering chilled basil jelly cubes and crunch of pine nuts. The multigrain flaky, crusty Tuscan bread kick-starts our dinner to a high allegro. As does the intense Mushroom Soup (topped with foam) and the Baked Chickpea Soca with hints of fennel delight. I’m not a pizza fan but this Thin Crust Pepperoni one passes muster. Kudos Chef Amaresh Nandan and executive chef Vikas Milhotra and Nitin Minocha. Two mains which top are the Seabass (with the thrilling salty charge of cauliflower puree and sweet kiss of orange reduction) and the succulent Lamb Shank. Pastry chef, Pankaj Chauhan’s exemplary desserts such as Deconstructed Tiramisu, Mascarpone Chocolate stays true to the rest of the meal. Attentive service led by Neharika Chopra, plenty for vegetarians and a well stocked wine enoteca are the other plus points here.
MINUS POINT
The shimmering gold decor jars. Our first meal was lousy from the word go… Burrata to limp, tasteless seabass. In the second dinner, while we enjoyed the Asparagus Topped with the Poached Egg, but it was low on salt. The Truffle Pizza was nicely put together with garlic oil, Parmesan, rucola but where was the truffle? Salad Nicoise was a prettily decorated plate but it can do with more substance. And we could do less of the sprinkling of foam on many a dish. No Grappa and no limoncello.
MY POINT
I broke my own rule of not dining at a restaurant for at least a month after it opens so as to give it time to sort out its teething troubles. We dined there, mid January within a day of its opening and were disappointed. I followed my other rule, of going back unannounced (paid my bill both times, average meal for two, Rs 5,000) spoke to diners (it was packed on a Monday night) and yes! The food is deliciously sophisticated without being pretentious. It’s the gold chandeliered decor that jars. So let’s just say that Rivea is simultaneously gold and haute! And Mumbai#39;s hottest new arrival!
Critic reviews are anonymous and all bills are paid by them.
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