During the British Raj, while most countries saw a wave of migration, the Brits stayed in their acquired colonies and the locals were posted to various parts of the world as labours. Most Indian travellers left behind almost everything, but they did take their dear spices with them overseas (a tradition that seems to be going on even today). While sticking to their roots, they started adapting to local flavours and bringing in their own variations to these dishes. NRI is a culmination of this harmony!
Michelin Star Chef Atul Kochhar returns to home shores with a flavour palate that is not just Indian (or NRI, as we call it) but has global influences. We dropped in for their first lunch service before the restaurant opens on Monday and came back charmed by the food that brought back memories of a different kind.
AMBIENCE
Kochhar’s Indian restaurant is subtle and yet speaks volumes of his London connect, much like the food. The door is masked with henna stamp patterns that shout out Indian, but as you walk in, you’ll see a simple bar and dessert cart stocked with goodies that will make you want to fast forward to the end of the meal. If you have a thing for lamps (like we do), you’ll notice a few good looking ones here with the bar having a hollow round flood light hanging from the top and the dessert section illuminated by quirky aluminium milk jugs. Bringing in the UK factor are lamp posts by the walls and the Indian tadka shines through hawker carts stacked with mason jar of spices, Parle G biscuits, Kiss Me candies, jeera goli and even a few pre-mix boxes of Indian sweets.
The sitting is casal with an open kitchen on one side and wooden furniture with chequered ceramic tabletops made brighter by a glass facade that makes things look spacious.
FOOD + DRINKS
Chef Atul has a strong reputation, thanks to his two Michelin stars for Tamarind and Benares, and hence the meal comes with great expectations. Don’t go looking for a sliver plate treatment or a menu that will make you Google names though. Instead, everything is casual and comforting, much like the man himself. The bar menu has an extensive selection of wines, spirits and beers along with signatures. We sampled the fruity Passion Fruit Chutney Martini (Rs 475) and a curry leaf infused Mumbai Martini (Rs 475) straight from Benares’ menu. The mocktails too are worth trying, especially the Durban Cooler (Rs 300) muddled with grilled pineapple, orange juice, honey and lime.
The food is divided into cold and hot appetisers, robata grills, NRI special curries and Indian mains. We started with Tandoori Jerk Spiced Chicken Salad (Rs 375) on a bed of charred grilled iceberg lettuce and topped with shredded raw papaya, which makes for a wholesome cold salad on a hot afternoon. The robata sends out some mean meaty dishes with our favourite being the Mamak Lamb Chops (Rs 1350) that speaks for both Malaysia and Tamil Nadu through its flavours. The grilled fruits or Phaldaari Chaat (Rs 225) have a strong and memorable tandoori aftertaste, while there’s also a twist to Hummus with Pind Da Hummus (Rs 225) that uses Indian spices to blend the chickpea instead of tahini and is served with daal wada, which is much lighter than the falafel.
For mains, the Durban staple Bunny Chow (Rs 525) with mutton stew topped with crispy papad is a must try. But it was the Sri Lankan Potli (Rs 400) paired with idiyappam that was a real revelation. As we said before, do save space for desserts that come on a cart (moved around by a server dressed as a mithaiwala). We indulged in the Maracaibu Orange topped with an orange infused chocolate mousse and a Raspberry Verrine with fresh strawberries topped with raspberry sauce – both of which left us besotted with this imported babu!
IN A NUTSHELL
WH Verdict: A causal eatery that serves Anglo-Indian fare from the pages of history.
Review Other Details: NRI on What#39;s Hot
Meal For Two: Rs 2,000
Cuisine: Indian
They are also on
Facebook: www.facebook.com/NotReallyIndian?
Twitter: @NRIBKC
Instagram: NRIBKC
**The writer was invited by the restaurant to preview their menu**
During the British Raj, while most countries saw a wave of migration, the Brits stayed in their acquired colonies and the locals were posted to various parts of the world as labours. Most Indian travellers left behind almost everything, but they did take their dear spices with them overseas (a tradition that seems to be going on even today). While sticking to their roots, they started adapting to local flavours and bringing in their own variations to these dishes. NRI is a culmination of this harmony!
Michelin Star Chef Atul Kochhar returns to home shores with a flavour palate that is not just Indian (or NRI, as we call it) but has global influences. We dropped in for their first lunch service before the restaurant opens on Monday and came back charmed by the food that brought back memories of a different kind.
AMBIENCE
Kochhar’s Indian restaurant is subtle and yet speaks volumes of his London connect, much like the food. The door is masked with henna stamp patterns that shout out Indian, but as you walk in, you’ll see a simple bar and dessert cart stocked with goodies that will make you want to fast forward to the end of the meal. If you have a thing for lamps (like we do), you’ll notice a few good looking ones here with the bar having a hollow round flood light hanging from the top and the dessert section illuminated by quirky aluminium milk jugs. Bringing in the UK factor are lamp posts by the walls and the Indian tadka shines through hawker carts stacked with mason jar of spices, Parle G biscuits, Kiss Me candies, jeera goli and even a few pre-mix boxes of Indian sweets.
The sitting is casal with an open kitchen on one side and wooden furniture with chequered ceramic tabletops made brighter by a glass facade that makes things look spacious.
FOOD + DRINKS
Chef Atul has a strong reputation, thanks to his two Michelin stars for Tamarind and Benares, and hence the meal comes with great expectations. Don’t go looking for a sliver plate treatment or a menu that will make you Google names though. Instead, everything is casual and comforting, much like the man himself. The bar menu has an extensive selection of wines, spirits and beers along with signatures. We sampled the fruity Passion Fruit Chutney Martini (Rs 475) and a curry leaf infused Mumbai Martini (Rs 475) straight from Benares’ menu. The mocktails too are worth trying, especially the Durban Cooler (Rs 300) muddled with grilled pineapple, orange juice, honey and lime.
The food is divided into cold and hot appetisers, robata grills, NRI special curries and Indian mains. We started with Tandoori Jerk Spiced Chicken Salad (Rs 375) on a bed of charred grilled iceberg lettuce and topped with shredded raw papaya, which makes for a wholesome cold salad on a hot afternoon. The robata sends out some mean meaty dishes with our favourite being the Mamak Lamb Chops (Rs 1350) that speaks for both Malaysia and Tamil Nadu through its flavours. The grilled fruits or Phaldaari Chaat (Rs 225) have a strong and memorable tandoori aftertaste, while there’s also a twist to Hummus with Pind Da Hummus (Rs 225) that uses Indian spices to blend the chickpea instead of tahini and is served with daal wada, which is much lighter than the falafel.
For mains, the Durban staple Bunny Chow (Rs 525) with mutton stew topped with crispy papad is a must try. But it was the Sri Lankan Potli (Rs 400) paired with idiyappam that was a real revelation. As we said before, do save space for desserts that come on a cart (moved around by a server dressed as a mithaiwala). We indulged in the Maracaibu Orange topped with an orange infused chocolate mousse and a Raspberry Verrine with fresh strawberries topped with raspberry sauce – both of which left us besotted with this imported babu!
IN A NUTSHELL
WH Verdict: A causal eatery that serves Anglo-Indian fare from the pages of history.
Review Other Details: NRI on What#39;s Hot
Meal For Two: Rs 2,000
Cuisine: Indian
They are also on
Facebook: www.facebook.com/NotReallyIndian?
Twitter: @NRIBKC
Instagram: NRIBKC
**The writer was invited by the restaurant to preview their menu**