Good news for us #39;Tiger’s milk#39; fans. We Peruvian food buffs savour vibrant, bold flavours, are addicted to Aji Amarillo chillies, to the raw fleshy fabulousness of the ceviches and tiraditos and of course to #39;Tigers milk#39; (explanation follows) I#39;ve been a Peruvian food fan ever since I ate out of the hands (literally too) of the greatest Peruvian chefs, Gaston Acurio and Virgilio Martinez. Coya (London and Dubai) were happy surprises. Even more cause Coya is helmed by an Indian chef, Sanjay Dwivedi. So, it was time to rejoice when London-based Atul Kochhar opened Mumbai’s first authentic Peruvian restaurant (7th March). Never mind that he calls it Latin American and includes grills from Brazil, street cuisine from Mexico. It’s the Peruvian cuisine which shines through.
DECOR
There is a somewhat dreary veranda look (with wobbly tables and chairs). Thankfully, the dimly lit room is off set by the lit-up dark blue bar with a glass top.
FOOD DRINK
Vibrant, unusual flavours and textures, South American staples, Aji peppers, red onions, yucca, quinoa, black beans, edamame, plenty of seafood here. Happily, there#39;s plenty for vegetarians too. The 28 year young chef Jerry Thomas excels and has recently added on many a main course (pork spare ribs, lamb stew).
He serves up a riotous carnival of flavours and textures, be it the sea bass, ceviche, avocado, red onions, Cancha corn vibrant with leche de tigre or tiger’s milk (lime juice, chilli, salt, onion, pepper) or the superb mushroom ceviche moist with tangy ponzu. Ask for the blue-fin tuna tiradito, the Peruvian take on sashimi but with a spicy aji paste and chia seeds. Chicken causa on the purple potato came up tops as did the moist, multicoloured quinoa with passionfruit leche. Go for the papaya tiradito (Veggie gourmet Shom Hinduja’s favorite). Must end with the intense Maracaibu Orange Chocolate kissed with orange and pregnant with a gooey dollop in it’s belly. Pisco Sour from Peru, Caipirinha from Brazil and Michelada from Mexico. Shatbi Basu will conjure up many more heady concoctions.
MINUS POINTS
Lacklustre ambiance. Neither the Mexican Enchiladas nor the Brazilian street food passed muster. The palm of hearts salad lacked punch, chicken gochujang more like a chicken tikka, fat wedges of yucca chips disappointed. All dishes priced on the higher side.
MY POINT
Bold, vibrant Peruvian flavours (plenty of vegetarian too). Avoidable Mexican and Brazilian dishes, Peruvian the best. Now if only they#39;d lower the price point (Rs 5000 for 2) and raise the brightness of the décor. Kudos Chefs Atul Kochhar and Jerry Thomas. Lima is much needed very welcome addition to Mumbai’s restaurantscape. A must visit!
Critic reviews are anonymous and all bills are paid by them.
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