She’s youthful, she’s vibrant fun, she’s quirky and high-energy. She’s Asian but Delhi-born. She has just set up in Bandra, Kala Ghoda and Ghatkopar too. Mamagoto (means “play with food”) has caught the imagination of the fickle Mumbaikar. The result? Three packed restaurants across the city. Packed restaurant and no-reservations policy. So I land up before opening hours each time. Push through the door and you’ll be bombarded with coloured graphics, Asian Ninjas, yellow-striped tigers, sea blue, imperial yellows, radiant reds and celadon greens. All this in an industrial-chic space, with a bar. This vibrant vibe of the ambiance infuses the design of the overcrowded menu and the food too. From Japanese Robata Grill to Thai, in dish after dish there is a determination to find a balance of sweet, sour, salt and spices and garlic. Mama’s Thai soul asserts itself through her Kaffir Lime and Thai Basil-infused rich creamy curries. Unique salads, Grilled Fish with Asian dressing, garlicky Eggplant Robata, Basil Cups with chatpata veggies and more. Back-to-childhood kind of Caramel drizzled Sponge Cake too. Many of the dishes have either no flavour or too much of it muddled together, be it the batter-heavy Calamari, the gooey Goreng, overcooked Prawns with Red Chilli, flavourless Steamed Fish, lacklustre Lamb Massaman Curry or the gelatinous cheesecake. Vibrant, high-energy ambiance infuses the robust, rich flavours of the food. We need some toned down, pristine and simple options too (there are too few). The tantalizing seasonings, the cheeky decor all add upto a great experience, if only the colourful, Mama wasn’t so noisy…!
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